Wood Burn Letters Font
Wood Burn Letters Font – In this tutorial I’m going to explain pyrography shading techniques to create five different textures using the same font style. This tutorial is not about creating font styles, but I will briefly touch on how to get them. Instead, the main focus of this tutorial is different options to color the font in addition to a standard uniform bold color. This is the second part of my font texture series.
Note that I burn on Montval 140lb (300g) cold pressed watercolor paper by Canson. I have no idea why I have this paper because I hate drawing. Heck, I don’t know how long I’ve been holding onto this paper, but at least I finally have a use for it.
Wood Burn Letters Font
The paper is cold pressed so it has a lot of texture. I burned the paper by rubbing it on a large block of wood to remove the texture, but I couldn’t get it all off. Some of the textures I burned onto the paper were not as smooth as they could have been due to the texture of the paper.
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If you are using a stencil, close the gaps in the stencil by drawing lines with a pencil. This gives you guidelines to follow with baking. Plus it’s easy to make changes in pencil form.
Use a straight edge to draw horizontal lines on the letters. I didn’t measure the distance between the lines, so mine have no gaps between them.
Then burn short drag strokes along the line. Start the stroke on the line and drag it towards the next pencil line. Stop at the halfway mark.
Then burn short drag strokes along the line. Start the stroke on the line again and drag it towards the next line. Once again stop the stroke about halfway between the two lines.
Mpi Wood 8
Move the burning character down within each pencil line and burn by dragging strokes along the line.
Again, drag strokes should start on the line and drag down toward the next line. Stop the stroke near the halfway mark.
By burning drag strokes that stop at the halfway mark, you’ll end up with burn strokes that start out dark and faded.
The stencil I used was a piece of lace border or edging made from rubber or vinyl. I have no idea where or when I got this. I buy all kinds of “texture” items to add background texture to when I airbrush. There is tape on the lower back and the protective cover is still on it.
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There are many other options, such as using paper doilies. They are inexpensive and come in a variety of designs.
Another option is to use store-bought stencils. The number of stencils with intricate mandala designs available is quite surprising.
First, use a writer pen to burn around the edges of the letter, filling in any gap lines. Rub over the letters with an eraser to remove any remaining graphite.
You can change where to place the stencil, how much of the letter to cover, and what part of the stencil design to use.
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Depending on the stencil, you may need to touch up the trace lines. Since mine is made of rubber or vinyl, a few small openings were not cut.
Use a writer pen tip to burn in the design. For some reason I couldn’t click the record button on my camera, so I didn’t get any video footage of this being done. Anyway I’m sure you get the idea.
Finally, switch back to a writer pen tip and burn along the outer edge of the laced letter. I wanted hard edges along the lacey part.
Our next texture is dark spots. I’ve actually used this type of texture in the background of some artwork I’ve done, like the Petunias.
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Use a marker pen to burn along the edges of the letter. If using a stencil be sure to close the gaps and rub an eraser over the letters as they burn along the edges to remove any remaining graphite.
Switch to the shader pen tip and start filling the letter with the random texture created by the circular motion.
Circular motion is created by literally moving your hand in small circles, so it tends to create lots of overlapping areas. Overlapping areas are slightly darker than non-overlapping areas, so it can create a random texture. The key to this burn style is to utilize the circular motion random feature.
To make the most of circular motion random texture creation capabilities, vary the speed of your hand and the size of the circle you burn. Some circles are so small that they have no gap, so they are a solid dot. Others have gaps of varying sizes. Move your hand slowly and you get a dark burn and vice versa.
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The first layer of circular motion of the article is finished. See how much variation is created in this burn.
Now burn the letter again, but make sure to leave some areas untouched. I leave the pale areas untouched, as it provides more contrast.
In this photo you can see how dark the character is in the areas that received a second layer of circular burn.
Here’s how the letter looks, applying two layers of circular motion to bring out more of the circular motion of the random texture that can be created.
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Next add the final layer in a circular motion, but this time only hit the areas you really want to darken. This is a random occurrence here and there, versus the second layer, which covers almost the entire letter.
Below is a composite picture showing the article after I performed each circular motion.
If you examine each letter, you will see that there are light spots after the first burn and I kept some of those light spots through a later re-bake. The extreme contrast between pale and dark really adds to the spotty look, but if you look, you’ll see that most colors are in the mid-range.
Our next texture is what I call crackers because it reminds me of salty crackers. You must be hungry when you name this.
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The letter starts like all of them if you use a stencil, close the gaps, burn along the edges of the letters, and rub it with an eraser to remove any remaining graphite.
Use a straight edge to draw lots of closely spaced horizontal lines across the letters. Again, I didn’t measure to make sure the lines were evenly spaced, but don’t let that stop you.
Then make a small grid on each letter and draw vertical lines. The smaller the grid, the more dots you will get.
This is the embossing tool I use. It is found in the craft store in the paper craft section and is used to make cards.
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Tip as a small rounded corner on it. I have used small crochet needles and I have used a microwriter pen tip for this type of work. Be careful if you use a pyrography pen tip as you are applying too much pressure and you can damage the tip.
Now burn over the letter with the shade layer to reveal the embossed dots. It still reminds me of saltine crackers and I admit I am hungry as I write this. 🙂
Here’s how the letters looked after I burned them over. Looking at them, I thought I needed a little more color.
Darkening them is a simple matter of firing back on them. Darker letters show dots better. Be careful if your embossed dots are really dark and burn hot as they can smudge if they aren’t too deep.
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If using a stencil, close the gaps, burn along the edges of the letter, then rub over the letters with an eraser.
Next, burnish the surface of the article to give it some color. Aim for a tan to medium tan color. Do not darken it as the dots will not show well.
Equip a large ballpoint pen tip, or use a scribe pen, and burn dotted lines onto the letters. You can burn the dotted line in any direction you want.
I suggest burning your main line in the direction you want and working from there. In this photo I burned an ‘s’ shaped line that curves down the length of the first letter.
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Then follow the curve of the line you burned as you fill in the dots with the remaining letters.
You can change the directions of your dotted lines and make the pattern as elaborate or simple as you want.
We’re screwed. I hope you find the information easy to understand. I’m planning more font texture tutorials, so if you have a particular texture you like